Hot Flashes & Cool Topics listeners have many questions about skin changes in midlife and beyond. We asked the top three frequently asked questions to expert Heidi Brown. Heidi is the CEO and Editor-in-Chief at Brilliance by Brown, Inc., a media company for skin health that is dedicated to disseminating information about skin health and wellness best practices as one ages. It features conscious-minded skin care companies, develops and distributes wellness awareness programming, provides virtual access to medical experts and well-being focused thought leaders, and it recommends skin care products for skin which requires more nourishment from head to toe.
What happens to collagen production as we age?
The balancing act of collagen production and degradation in our bodies shifts as we age. Found in both our bodies and skin, this protein diminishes in its production as we age and the ability of the body to compensate for the loss gradually becomes more difficult due to tissue degeneration. Environmental factors like UV, stress, genetics and inflammation also impact collage production. Hence, skin becomes thinner, loss of elasticity is more evident, and sweat and oil glands are affected.
How can we maintain moisture in aging skin? Does it differ depending on skin types and tones?
Generally, dryness from head to toe is an actuality as one ages regardless of skin tone or skin type. The degree to which differing skin tones and skin types are impacted are factors, however, the steps and ingredients necessary to retain skin moisture are similar. From what one consumes to skin cleansing to skin care product applications, all are important factors to help maintain moisture. As an example, shower with warm water, keep skin damp after cleansing and then apply a body moisturizer. Don’t wash your face in the shower, the temperature is too hot. Wash your face in the sink with lukewarm water. Don’t completely dry your face after washing, immediately apply a toner (optional), serum, moisturizer and then sunscreen–in that order–to help retain moisture. Look for ingredients with water, glycerin, peptides, ceramides, and fatty acids. Fragrance in cleansers and skincare products should be avoided.
Hyperpigmentation, what can we do about it?
Hormone fluctuations, years of sun exposure, and genetics can trigger certain conditions—in particular, hyperpigmentation.
More common in women and especially women within the expansive range of darker skin tones, hyperpigmentation is a vexing issue that may improve over time. Accepting that patience needs to be top of mind, following are tips and insights that may help to heal the skin.
- Skin inhibiting ingredients that hinder pigment production is key. They include: prescription Azelaic acid 15% – 20%; Arbutin; Licorice root; Kojic acid; Vitamin C.
- Schedule an appointment with a Dermatologist.
- A gentle face cleanser with lukewarm water day and night.
Day Routine:
- The day routine post-wash includes: a Vitamin C serum, follow with a gentle moisturizer, an under eye moisturizer, wrap up the process with a mineral sunscreen— the ingredient zinc oxide provides complete coverage and it is believed to be a better sun blocker than a chemical sunscreen.
- Be sure to apply sunscreen at numerous intervals throughout the day whether indoors or outdoors.
Evening Routine:
The evening routine post-wash includes a variety of alternating treatments per night:.
- A serum application like niacinamide (no more than 5%) or arbutin, followed by a moisturizer rich in peptides and fatty acids (label read: linoleic acid, safflower oil, sunflower oil, oleic acid, stearic acid, Vitamin F, hemp oil, palmitic acid), and under eye moisturizer.
- Vitamin A (prescription or a quality Retinol or Retinal), follow with a moisturizer rich in peptides and fatty acids, complete with a facial oil, and under eye moisturizer.
- Arbutin applied to the hyperpigmented area(s), follow with a moisturizer rich in peptides and fatty acids, complete with a facial oil, and under eye moisturizer.
- Azelaic acid applied to the hyperpigmented area(s), follow with a moisturizer rich in peptides and fatty acids, complete with a facial oil, and under eye moisturizer.
- As for an AHA, BHA, Polyhydroxy acid (PHA), or other chemical peels, each type is helpful for exfoliation and skin turnover. Part of an evening routine, it is recommended to be applied once a week to twice a month as a substitute, and not to be combined with Vitamin A, Azelaic acid, Kojic acid, or any of the other skin ingredient inhibitors.
- Refrain from steaming the face, using the steam room, sauna, and avoid any other type of heat exposure.
- Wear a hat to avoid sun exposure.